You can see the original values and the values that I changed to in parenthesis. Just tap the signal from the lifted resistors (and maybe add output caps of 4.7uF) The before/after RMAA tests of the modifications can be found here.

Ok, so why install a new clock? Isn’t there one in there already? Yes, your right. But by using better parts like crystals with lower ppm and also design a very clean power supply to feed the clock, you can make your player sound much better. And the reason is lower jitter.

But what is jitter? There is plenty of really good places to go read up on it. Here’s some.

http://www.audiocraftersguild.com/AandE/cd-jitter.pdf (PDF warning)

http://www.stereophile.com/reference/590jitter/

Ok, lets look at the schematic. Here you can see the clock and two capacitors, C404 and C403 and the clock is X401. The clock is feeding into the DAC (PD2029A) (you can find the complete schematic in part one)

We need to remove the crystal X401, and the two capacitors, C403 and C404. The old load capacitors are no longer needed. The next step is to connect the Kingwa clock to the DAC. As seen on the schematic, the clock is 16.9344Mhz, so we need to use the correct outlet from the Kingwa clock. There is three different divisions of the clock. You need to solder two connections. One for the ground, labeled GND, and the one just next to it, labeled 1/4F0.

Now we need to feed the signal generated from the new clock to the DAC. Connect one of them to the hole in C403 furthest away from the DAC. I put the GND line here. The other one should go where the old clock used to go. Use the one closest to the large capacitor for the DAC (see picture).

The Kingwa clock is going to need power. Any voltage between 10-30 V DC will do. I will have an upcoming article about the power supply I built for it. You will find the connectors for the power on the over side of the Kingwa clock.

Next step, testing. Put in a cd. If you have the cover removed when doing this REMEMBER DANGER HIGH VOLTAGE! No touchy touchy while doing this. Not on the part we soldered but on the power supply. Anyway, If you didn’t know this you really should not be doing this in the first place.

When you press power it should read the TOC from the CD. Press play. If the display shows the seconds ticking, you can turn the player off, unplugg and put the cover back on.

elgrandee

Why whould I need this?

All albums and songs are mixed differently. So in iTunes some albums sounds very loud whilst other is rather low. This has increased in something called the Loudness War. Producers of albums soon realized that if you mix an album really hot, it will sound louder then the other songs on crappy stereo equipment. So essentially you have a lot of music in your iPod/iPhone with albums recorded at totally different volume. That’s why you have to constantly change the volume knob to correct for this. Here Apple comes to the rescue with it’s Automatic Volume Settings. Unfortunately the algorithm Apple chose to use to determine the volume of the song is made to be quick, but not particularly accurate. This mean that the songs does come out all over the place volume vise.But there is an good solution to this problem, and it?s name is ReplayGain.

This is program that analyzes the music psycho acoustically and then makes an assessment on witch level the song/album should be. Unfortunately Apple haven’t embraced this techique even though it’s totally open. Shame on you Apple.

ReplayGain application

But there’s a sollution. An application called iVolume that goes though all your songs in iTunes and makes sure they have the same level. This mean that you can be certain in that you won?t have ear blead when a song of Sting ends and Mötorhead comes on.

The software is super easy to use, just start it and iTunes, make sure you have ?Sound Check? enabled in preferences in iTunes. After that you just push a button.

One downside only, the price is $29.95 witch I think is a bit high. But for me It was a must, it transforms the pleasure of listening to music.

Part two of this series is now up. Read on how to install a better clock.

So I bought this Pioneer PD S-505 for $40 to test how good audio quality I’m able to squeeze out by modifying it. But It will not be just the standard subjective judgement of improvement but also measurements. Back in 2000 you had to pay about $400 for it. It uses the stable platter which means you have to put the CD in upside down. So let’s get going.

The steps I planned is the following:

• Remove the mute transistors.
• Replace the output opamp
• Remove headphone output
• Replace the clock with a GD-Audio clock
• Improve the regulated voltage feeds to the DAC and opamp
• Improve the power supply
• Add a separate regulated power supply for the clock and opamp

Ok, lets look at some stuff we need to do. First we have to remove the mute transistors. Less stuff in the audio path equals better sound. The transistors is just there to make the measurements look better for reviews. So they have to go.

Click for larger image

So transistors Q403, Q404, Q453 and Q454 is removed. Desolder och just clip the pins (carefully) with a wire cutter.

Next step, time to desolder the opamp which is a rather old opamp (NE5532). Desolder the opamp IC405 and solder in a socket for easy testing with different opamps. I settled on LM4562 at first.

Remove the heaphone opamp if you don’t going to use it. It’s better to buy an external headphone amplifier like V-CAN Tube Headphone Amplifier or better.

That’s about it for today. Next installment, upgrade the clock to improve jitter numbers…

On to part two on how to add a better clock to your PIONEER PD S-505

Will be back with a writeup and test diagrams when I’m finished…

And now Van Halen with SongSmith Some Gay Bar