Electronics on Jackenhack

PlayStation VR Motion Controller Battery Refuses To Charge

Tue, 11 Sep 2018 00:00:00 +0000

If you leave your PlayStation Motion Controller without charging it for a long time, the battery will not charge. Even after you press the reset button, the controller refuses to recharge. Replacing the battery is an easy fix, but expensive, and there is another way of getting the PlayStation Controller to work again.

Aneng AN8009 Improve Accuracy, measuring Speed

Tue, 05 Jun 2018 00:00:00 +0000

Just got my new Aneng AN8009 Multimeter in the mail. I’ve made an old post about improving the responsiveness of the Aneng AN8008 in an earlier blog post. I loved that meter, but I gave it to my son who is just beginning on his electronic journey. So naturally, I needed a replacement. After checking eBay, I found that there’s a new model, the Aneng AN8009 so I decided to get that model. It has the same problem that the Aneng AN8008 had; it’s slow to settle on a value when measuring. Fortunately, my old modifications work on the Aneng AN8009 as well.

HifiBerry DAC+ Click When Changing Song

Fri, 06 Apr 2018 00:00:00 +0000

My current music setup is a Raspberry Pi 3 with a HifiBerry DAC+ audio card as my music player. It works perfectly, except for one annoying thing. The new HifiBerry DAC+ makes an audible click or poping sound when changing the sampling rate. I have a lot of recordings in higher resolution than CD-quality of 16-bit 44kHz, so it’s jarring when it happens. I like to play my music loud which exacerbates the problem. But there’s an easy solution, and at the same time, you can get better sound quality overall. Here’s how to fix the problem.

PA0RDT Mini Whip – Installing In an Apartment building

Fri, 02 Mar 2018 00:00:00 +0000

I’ve recently got interested in RF radio. But I live in an apartment, so I can’t do any installing of large antennas. So after doing the obligatory Google search, I narrowed it down to two antennas. The Wellbrook Loop Antenna and the (much cheaper) PA0RDT Mini-Whip. Being short of cash, I decided to buy a cheap Mini-Whip from eBay.

WiMo Antennen A Horrible Buying Experience

Thu, 01 Mar 2018 00:00:00 +0000

Update: Apparently WeMo took notice of this article and contacted me. They have now sent a replacement unit. I also got an email from the people at Airspy, who mistakenly thought that this blog post was directed at them, which is not the case. The reason for me to choose Airspy is because they make quality products at a really good price, and I plan to do a blog post about using the Airspy Mini as an ADS-B receiver.

Thinking of buying any radios, antennas or other radio amateur equipment from WiMo Antennen und Elektronik GmbHI? Think again!

I wanted to buy an Airspy Mini to use as a makeshift simple spectrum analyzer. Usually, I buy directly from the manufacturer, but I wanted to be sure that if something were wrong with it, then it would be easier to have a seller closer to Sweden, so I decided to buy from WiMo Antennen und Elektronik GmbH in Germany. That turned out to be a mistake.

Cetus 3D Y-Axis Adjustment The Easy Way

Wed, 21 Feb 2018 00:00:00 +0000

I’ve been busy the last couple of weeks, learning all the ins and outs of my new Cetus3D 3D-printer. It’s a cheap printer for around $300, but it has linear rails and can give excellent results. Unfortunately, the calibration quality from the factory was terrible, which is unfortunate on such a superb printer.

My Y-axis was way out. If I zeroed out the nozzle on the left side, the right side was 2.0 lower. There is a calibration feature inside the program, but you need to always print with a raft to get your prints level, with the accompanied wastage of PLA plastic. But I finally found an easy way of fixing the Y-axis adjustment. Here’s how I did it.

Cetus3D MKII Can't Calibrate Nozzle Close to Build Plate

Thu, 01 Feb 2018 00:00:00 +0000

After finally getting my Cetus3D MkII 3D-printer I was eager to start to print. When I started through the steps to calibrate the printer by adjusting the build plate height, but the print head/nozzle refused to get close enough to the build plate to finish the calibration! The cables on the motor came in contact with the chassis of the printer! So the injector was 5mm from the build plate and couldn’t get any closer by increasing the step values. But there is an easy fix for the problem.

433 MHz Support in Node-RED

Fri, 17 Nov 2017 00:00:00 +0000

ITEAD contacted me about testing some new equipment and write an unbiased blog post about it. I usually reject all such offers, but this one worked for me. Why? Well, all the stuff they offered was on my shopping list anyway! And my home is quite literally chock full of Sonoff relays, lamps, etc.

So the first thing I started to play with was the SONOFF RF BRIDGE 433. The bridge makes it possible to control switches, doorbells, curtain openers, etc. that uses 433MHz communication frequency. I’m not interested in using the original firmware because I prefer to do my home automation setup in Node-RED. Here’s how it works.

Retr0bright – Will It Last?

Fri, 03 Nov 2017 00:00:00 +0000

Over the years I’ve been reading about a way of restoring old computers and other equipment where the plastic has turned yellow and how some bright guys developed a method called Retr0bright to reverse the process.

The reason for the yellowing of the plastic is the flame retardant bromide that is infused in the plastic to prevent fires. When exposed to UV-light, the bromide comes to the surface of the ABS plastic, and the yellowing begins.

Unfortunately, even after treating the item with Retr0bright, the yellowing returns after 3-4 years, looking worse than your grandfather’s underwear.

Here’s my attempt at a fix to that problem.

DIY Coaxial Collinear Antenna for ADS-B SDR Receiver – Measuring The Cable

Thu, 26 Oct 2017 00:00:00 +0000

[caption id=“attachment_5818” align=“alignright” width=“300”] My first attempt of a Collinear Antenna. Professional mounting![/caption]

Part 1 – Checking the Velocity Factor of the Coax Cable

I have a homebuilt Collinear Antenna on one of my two ADS-B receivers. It’s an eight element antenna, built without any real effort of making sure that all the elements where the right length. So it’s about time to try to do it properly. The easy way is to get Flightaware’s great ADS-B antenna and filter, but it’s fun to build your own as well.

To build a good antenna, you would preferably use a Vector Network Analyzer so you can do proper measurements of your antenna design. With it you can quickly check stuff like SWR and optimize the impedance of the antenna at the frequency it’s intended to be used. In my case 1090MHz for ADS-B. But if you don’t have the money to spend, you have to improvise. I’m going to build a 12 element Collinear Antenna out of cheap RG-58 coax cable. But to calculate the right length of each element, we need to know the Velocity Factor, or the signal speed through the cable compared to light traveling in a vacuum. So let’s do the measurements.

Aneng AN8008/AN8009 Modify For Better Accuracy Faster Readings

Thu, 12 Oct 2017 00:00:00 +0000

If you are on the lookout for a sub $30 Multimeter (or $15 on eBay) for working with low voltages, the best one right now in my opinion is the cute and tiny Aneng AN8008 TrueRMS Multimeter or the newer model, the Aneng AN8009 with NCV and temperature measurement. They have a lot of functions and can measure µA current, and both are a 9999-count meter. The continuity tester is reasonably fast, but there is one little problem that bothered me. It takes 5 to 10 seconds for it to settle on a correct voltage reading. When it finally ends, it’s spot on, but the waiting is annoying. But fortunately, there is a simple fix for this problem.

Calibrating Brymen BM-Series Multimeters

Wed, 27 Sep 2017 00:00:00 +0000

Easy Way To Calibrate a Bryman BM869s Multimeter

After replacing my lost Fluke 87V multimeter with a new Brymen BM869s (rebranded Greenlee in the US) about a year ago, I’ve been delighted with the multimeter. It has every possible function I could ask for and then some. It’s been my go-to meter when working on electronics projects. I do have a Siglent SDM3055 DMM that is very good, but due to its startup time, I usually reach for my Brymen BM869s when I need to measure something, and it has higher resolution. But after getting a broken HP/Agilent 34401A DMM from eBay, fixing it up and replacing all the capacitors, I now have a better reference. I’ve compared it to my friend’s calibrated 6 ½-digit multimeter, and it’s still within spec, so naturally, I want my Brymen to be as close to my HP 34401A as possible. Turns out that calibrating and adjusting the Brymen is quite easy. Here’s how to do it.

NTP Server Extreme accuracy for under $200 Using SI5351C

Wed, 12 Apr 2017 00:00:00 +0000

When you make your own NTP server, you probably spend a lot of time trying to get it as accurate and stable as possible. To get good results, you need to connect your server to a good time reference, like an atomic clock, GPS or a GPSDO to get the PPS (Pulse Per Second) to sync your server with the reference clock.

In both Linux and BSD, there is kernel support to slave the very inaccurate CPU clock crystal to the PPS signal, continually adjusting the frequency, because the crystals of computers continuously drift due to temperature and barometric pressure differences. So most of the work is to get a crappy crystal to behave. What if you just jumped over that step, so the CPU clock gets synchronized with the same lab reference that the PPS signal uses, using a SI5351C Clock Generator?

Read on to see a simple way of doing it and get an extremely accurate NTP server for under $200.

Atten 8502D Pinout Replacement Iron Heating element

Thu, 23 Mar 2017 00:00:00 +0000

So you need to replace the soldering iron on your Atten 8502D Soldering Station. You could just buy the heating element, but you can find a complete soldering iron with cable for less than $12 on eBay. So It’s easier just to replace the whole thing.

It Doesn’t Work!

I have ordered replacement irons before (I’m very rough with my soldering station) just to find out that they don’t work. You get the dreaded S-E or H-E message on display and, obviously, something is wrong. What do you do now? Read on to find out.

Sonoff WiFi Smart Switch With I2C Port

Tue, 21 Mar 2017 00:00:00 +0000

How to add an I2C interface to a Sonoff WiFi Smart Switch.

The Sonoff brand is a whole series os IOT devices that use the esp8266 WiFi processor internally. The devices are easily hacked and are cheap. The Sonoff WiFi Smart Switch is the most straightforward device, which can turn on or off 110/220 Volt 10 Ampere remotely. That means you can have your ceiling fan, lamp or anything else connected t mains power remotely controlled by your phone or computer. But the software that comes with it isn’t very flexible and cannot be integrated into a home control system like NodeRED, OpenHAB or any other home automation system.

Firmware

The Sonoff devices are easy to hack, so you can put a better firmware like ESPEasy on it and integrate the device with any system. ESPEasy has an extensive list of extra modules that you can connect, like temperature, barometric pressure, humidity, light sensors, PIR sensors and a long list of other things.

But most modules connect with I2C, which is a serial interface for interconnecting ICs using a clock and a data line. The Sonoff Switch only have one extra pin available, making it impossible to connect more advanced sensors. But there is a way of fixing that. Here’s how to add that to add an I2C connector to your $5 Sonoff and open up a whole field of stuff you can do.

Cable Impedance How to Measure It

Thu, 16 Mar 2017 00:00:00 +0000

What kind of impedance does this coax cable have?

Sometimes you dig around in your parts bin, desperately searching for a bit of coax cable to make a new connector to your fantastic whizzbang widget. If you find a piece of cable without markings, how do you know if it’s 75Ω, 50Ω or some other impedance? Well, here are two easy ways of finding out.

NAD 3020B Amplifier A Classic Worth Restoring

Wed, 09 Nov 2016 00:00:00 +0000

A friend of mine bought a new amplifier, but he wasn’t pleased with the sound. So he called me and asked if I could recommend a good old amplifier that could drive smaller speakers because he likes the aesthetic of older things. And the venerable NAD 3020B was the first one that came to mind. When I was young, this was the first affordable amplifier that sounded good.

It’s not a powerhouse by any means, putting out (a very conservative estimate) 2 x 20 watts. But the phono stage accepts both MM and MC pickups which is excellent, and the sound quality is exceptional. So he scoured the used market and finally found a NAD 3020B. Unfortunately, when he got it home, there was a loud hum from the output. So I told him to send it to me so I could fix it.

Raspberry Pi 3 Overclocking Enclosure

Sun, 31 Jul 2016 00:00:00 +0000

[caption id=“attachment_4974” align=“alignright” width=“400”] Raspberry Pi 3 Overclocking Case Enclosure[/caption]

The results are in: I’ve been very busy with different projects, and one of them requires a custom enclosure. So I thought it would be an excellent excuse to learn Fusion 360. When the Raspberry Pi 3 came out, I did some overclocking experiments. But I settled with just passive cooling with some small aluminum heatsinks. But after seeing some tests done with a more massive copper heatsink combined with a cooling fan, I decided that I wanted to build a case with a silent fan with enough room for a large heatsink. I need it for my NTP server at ntp.jacken.se to get better performance.

DIY Reference 10 MHz Distribution Amplifier

Sun, 20 Mar 2016 00:00:00 +0000

I wanted to get a distribution amplifier for my 10 MHz lab reference signal from my GPSDO to feed my equipment, like my timer/frequency counter, signal generator, and other stuff. I also needed a way to distribute a 1 PPS signal from my Trimble GPSDO to my NTP servers and other clocks and monitoring systems. The Trimble only got two 10 MHz outputs and one 1 PPS signal output, so I needed to add more, especially for experimentation.

I saw this video by Gerry Sweeney where he modifies an Extron 300MX video distributions amplifier, adding a rubidium reference standard and was intrigued. But I changed the modifications to fit my needs and here is the result.

Philips-Fluke PM6665 Frequency Counter with Oven Controlled Crystal Oscillator

Wed, 23 Dec 2015 00:00:00 +0000

Upgrading a Philips-Fluke PM6665 Frequency Counter with an Oven Controlled Crystal Oscillator - Up and Running!

I needed a frequency counter for my little lab at home. Naturally, I wanted an HP Agilent 53132A or similar, but it’s way too expensive for my modest use. So I browsed around eBay and found an old Philips-Fluke PM6665 frequency counter with the optional 1.3GHz add-on board. With a 10 second gate time, I can get down to 0.1 Hz at 10 MHz, so that’s more than I need. It didn’t have the option of a better crystal, unfortunately. When I tested the PM6665 against my Trimble 10 MHz GPSDO reference, the unit was off by 200.1 Hz. Without a calibration sticker on the instrument, I’d say that’s pretty good for a device manufactured in the late 80s. I tried to trim it, but it uses an adjustable capacitor, and you only needed to look at it for it to change settings.

Speeding up your SPI MAX7219 LED displays using a modified Arduino LedControl Library

Fri, 20 Nov 2015 00:00:00 +0000

Speeding up your SPI MAX7219 LED displays when using Arduino and LedControl Library

In preparation for the arrival of my GPSDO[1], I’m doing a quick build of an “Atomic Clock” display to have above my lab equipment. I’m using a cheap, small eight digit red LED SPI-controlled display. It uses the MAX7219 controller that I got from eBay for next to nothing. I plan to parse the RS232 information from the GPSDO unit and display the exact time. I’ll also post error messages if the GPS signal lock gets lost.

I’ve done a quick prototype using an Arduino Uno, but I plan to try to get an Attiny85 to work as the controller when I’ve finished the parser and the rest of the software.

After doing some research, naturally, there was a library available to connect to my LED display called LedControl. It’s part of the standard Arduino libraries (in the download section). But when I checked the code, it uses the Arduino routines to shift out the SPI data to the display. It’s great if you want to be able to use any pins to connect to the screen, but using Arduino’s bit manipulation tools for “bit-banging” the display is slow.

Upgrading a Philips/Fluke PM6665 Frequency Counter with an Oven Controlled Crystal Oscillator OCXO

Thu, 19 Nov 2015 00:00:00 +0000

I’ve finished the OCXO upgrade. Read about it here

While browsing on eBay for my new lab at home (I’m getting into electronics again), I came across a Philips PM6665 Frequency Counter, an old but functional unit so I couldn’t resist, I had to buy it. So I downloaded the Users Manual and Service Manual for the frequency counter and started to check the schematic. As usual the unit, when new, could be bought with several options. One of them was a better crystal oscillator, an MTCXO that can be automatically calibrated using a 10 MHz external reference, giving an accuracy of 3*10-8 but my unit doesn’t have that option, unfortunately. This will be fixed though. But it does have a 70 MHz to 1.3 GHz optional input!

So here’s what I plan to do…

Use LTspice IV Windows Version on Mac OS X

Wed, 21 Oct 2015 00:00:00 +0000

Running LTspice IV on Mac OS X

Before I start testing a new idea for an electronic circuit and building it on a breadboard, I usually want to check it with LTspice. It’s a fantastic piece of software for testing almost any kind of component. Nearly all manufacturers have a spice equivalent for most of their parts. But there’s a snag. The Mac version of LTspice is a piece of crap. Having to run a virtual PC or reboot using BootCamp feels unnecessarily slow and convoluted. But there’s a way of running it as a “normal” Mac application. Here’s how to do it.

Rigol DS1054Z Oscilloscope Hangs-Freeze On Boot

Tue, 15 Sep 2015 00:00:00 +0000

I got myself a four channel 50MHz oscilloscope to be able to do some measurements. The Rigol DS1054Z. It’s expensive in Sweden if you buy it from a local retailer, but I ordered mine from Batronix in Germany and thanks to being part of the EU, there’s no customs and extra taxes added to the price.

The oscilloscope is easily hacked to 100MHz and a lot of other functions like serial protocol decoding and also more memory depth. RS232/UART, I2C and SPI decoding, advanced trigger functions like RS232/UART, I2C, SPI, Runt, Windows, Nth edge, Delay and Timeout trigger. Search for “Rigol DS1054Z hack,” and you’re on your way to transform your scope to a much more expensive version. But don’t enable the 500µV option. The oscilloscope doesn’t support it in hardware, so you will run into bugs if enabled.

I’ve been delighted with my purchase, except for the occasional bug. But today it went into a total haywire mode. When trying to start it up, it hangs on boot. Either by just showing the Rigol boot screen, or show the standard display but remain immune to any input from the controls. Panic! But thankfully I found a solution to my problem.

Mapping WiFi Signals in 3D

Wed, 18 Feb 2015 00:00:00 +0000

“Mapping WiFi Signals in 3 Dimensions”

3D wifi plot image

Adam Fabio, Hackaday:

[Charles] is on a quest to complete ever more jaw-dropping hacks with the popular low-cost ESP8266 WiFi modules. This week’s project is plotting WiFi received signal strength in 3D space. While the ESP8266 is capable of providing a Received Signal Strength Indication (RSSI), [Charles] didn’t directly use it. He wrote a simple C program on his laptop to ping the ESP8266 at around 500Hz. The laptop would then translate the RSSI from the ping replies to a color value, which it would then send to the ESP8266. Since the ESP8266 was running [Charles’] custom firmware (as seen in his WiFi cup project), it could directly display the color on a WS2812 RGB LED.

A great hack. It’s amazing to actually be able to see the reception of the Wi-Fi signal mapped as a 3D object. Shows that just moving a router/receiver a small amount can have an impact on reception.

Raspberry Pi Car Audio System

Mon, 23 Jun 2014 00:00:00 +0000

My Raspberry Pi Car Audio Player

A lot of people are using the excellent Linux microcomputer Raspberry Pi and install it in their cars. Usually, they use a color screen that is touch sensitive, being able to play back video and music. But I’m only interested in high-quality audio playback, being able to have all my CDs in lossless FLAC format for optimal sound quality. So a 16x2 LCD with some buttons is plenty. I now have a working system (but not yet installed in my car.) here’s a description of how I’ve built it. Most of the installations I’ve seen the use of the audio out from the Raspberry Pi, but it’s only 11-bit and sounds like crap. I want to use an external DAC, and you can get that to work in XBMC, but only menu and music output, not films. There are some HDMI to audio converters, but I’ll instead use a quality USB DAC.

http://youtu.be/wzmFZlpbBCQ

Adafruit TRINKET – Mini Microcontroller

Tue, 03 Sep 2013 00:00:00 +0000

Adafruit TRINKET – Mini Microcontroller – 3.3V and 5.5V versions:

It’s a tiny microcontroller board, built around the Atmel ATtiny85, a little chip with a lot of power.

A cool cheap little Arduino compatible board for smaller projects. The 3.3V version runs at 8MHz and the 5V version can run at 8 or 16MHz. It has five I/O pins available and comes with 8kb of memory. It can be programmed with AVRDude or the Arduino IDE after some small modifications. Looks great!

Run Away Brainz: Audio: Crystal cMoy Freeform Headphone Amp

Wed, 29 May 2013 00:00:00 +0000

Crystal cMoy Freeform Headphone Amp:

Very cool transparent cMoy headphone amplifier, made using clear casting resin. This is something I have to try.

Via 0pachira

Raspberry Pi Car Computer

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 +0000

Update: You can find my latest update on the progress of my Raspberry Pi Car Audio System here.

I’m working on a Raspberry Pi as a music player in my car. I’m putting all my music on a SSD disk in lossless FLAC. I’ve already got hold of a 2x16 character LCD with six button from Adafruit that only uses two pins for communication with I2C. It’s easy to program and it has four different background colors.

How to use interrupts with Python on the Raspberry Pi and RPi.GPIO » RasPi.TV

Tue, 19 Mar 2013 00:00:00 +0000

How to use interrupts with Python on the Raspberry Pi and RPi.GPIO » RasPi.TV:

We’ve finally got interrupt capability on the Raspberry Pi for GPIO programming in Python using RPi.GPIO.

Interesting! Saving this link for later experimenting. Need buttons for my Carputer Raspberry Pi.

Via Scoop.it!

Raspberry Pi as a Squeezebox Logitech Server

Sat, 22 Dec 2012 00:00:00 +0000

I love my music playback setup that consists of a couple of Squeezebox V3 players in different rooms so I can listen to music in lossless format wherever I am in the apartment. With the iPeng HD app on my iPad, I have a nice interface for controlling the players with album art and other nice features. But the best part is that I can playback high resolution audio directly on my iPad using the Camera Kit USB adapter and an HRT HeadStreamer DAC portable USB headphone amplifier. But I wanted a small, cheap and eco-friendly server for hosting my music files and wondered if I could use the Raspberry Pi. And here’s my findings.

Arduino, a good way for kids to learn how to program

Mon, 09 Aug 2010 00:00:00 +0000

My twelve year old son want’s to learn how to program. My first idea was to teach him Ruby or Python, but I decided to go with Arduino. It’s C-based so that’s a good start I think. Were currently planning a couple of projects but so far he’s managed to get some LED’s blinking. A good start.

Adding a Kingwa clock to a Pioneer PD S-505

Sat, 19 Dec 2009 00:00:00 +0000

Here is the second part of how to improve the quality of an old CD player, the Pioneer PD S-505. You can find the first part here. In this section, I’m going to show you how to install a better, more stable clock circuit into your 505 to lower the jitter. This particular clock comes from Kingwa, that has a series of crystal oscillators for improving DVD players, CD players, and DACs. The price is reasonable. I’ve installed them in three different units and had zero problems, so the quality seems reasonable.

Ok, so why install a new clock? Isn’t there one in there already? Yes, your right. But by using better parts like crystals with lower ppm and also design a very clean power supply to feed the clock, you can make your CD-player sound much better. And the reason is lower jitter.

But what is jitter? There is plenty of excellent places to go read up on it. Here’s some.

ProAc Response 2.5 clones plays real music

Tue, 29 May 2007 00:00:00 +0000

So finally my new ProAc Response 2.5 clone playing music. And how they play! I got myself a new Class-A amplifier to have something nice to drive them with. At first they sounded a bit short on the bass side, but now after about 20 hours of listening, the bass starts to improve. I’ve never believed in the “burn-in” of speakers, but I have to say I’ve been mistaken.

CMoy DIY Headphone Amplifier

Sun, 05 Feb 2006 00:00:00 +0000

Building the venerable CMoy DIY Headphone Amplifier

The last couple of weeks I’ve been thinking of building a small headphone amplifier. I want to tap into the line-out of my iPod to get better sound. I also have a problem with my headphone jack on my pod. After fighting with my friend Hermans dog, he managed to get his paw entangled in my headphone cables and destroyed the cable jack. So I have searched the net to try to find a good amplifier to build (I don’t have the money to buy one right now), and I found the Cmoy headphone amplifier. But I used another build page that has some upgrades to it. Unfortunately I could not find the bread board they used, so I had to make my own design. So after a couple of hours of soldering and using a drill it was time to try it out. And it worked! No debugging or anything. This must be a first.